Posts

A Morning Washed in Monsoon

Image
  Every morning, my drive to Kannur Dental College follows a familiar rhythm,  a quick breakfast, keys in hand, the engine humming to life, and the same winding route through the quiet stretches of Tazhe Chovva - Anjarakandy. But today, the rain had rewritten everything.  It had started raining sometime during the night, not the loud, stormy kind, but a steady, soaking monsoon rain that seemed to cleanse the air and slow the world down. As I started the car, the wipers began their lazy dance across the windshield. The road from home to the college that usually stood still on either side of the road now swayed gently, droplets falling from their leaves in slow motion. The red earth had turned darker, and little streams had started to form along the edges of the road, gurgling playfully. The usual bustle was muted. Fewer people stood at bus stops; Schoolchildren with plastic raincoats and colourful umbrellas   walked along the edge of the road, their movements cut...

Caffeinne Memories

Image
  I’m writing this while waiting at Bengaluru airport, midway at through a long and tiring connecting journey with  eyes heavy, body aching.   In search of something comforting, I grabbed a hot filter coffee from Rameshwaram Café an outlet near Gate 35. It was strong, rich, with that signature South Indian aroma that cuts through the fatigue. Having a sip of that cofee , my mind took me to my PG days - Standing on a chilly mornings at weekends  at Bhupathi Coffee   the tiny roadside stall  opposite Egmore Railway station ,that served what still remains the best coffee I’ve ever had    Bhupathi’s wasn’t glamorous. No fancy décor,  Just a steel boiler, a weathered counter, and the man himself ,with his no-nonsense pouring technique and quiet efficiency. But come 5 a.m., the place was alive with the smell of roasted beans and the sleepy chatter of people who come in and  out of Egmore railway station . My mind took me to PC,( parr...

The Calm We Lost: Remembering the vision of Dignity

Image
 I grew up glued to the TV news in the 1980s and 1990s. Back then television in India meant one thing ie Doordarshan. For many of us, it wasn’t just entertainment; it was an education, a window to the wider world, and a steadying influence in our homes . The news readers were not just presenters, they were trusted voices in our homes. Names like Salma Sultan, with her trademark rose tucked neatly in her hair, or Neethi Ravindran, with her calm authority, immediately come to mind. Gitanjali Aiyar, elegant yet precise, and Rini Simon Khanna, with her measured tone, defined what it meant to be a newsreader. Even Usha Albuquerque and others brought the same composure. Tejeshwar Singh, with his deep, baritone voice, brought a gravitas that could make even the dullest parliamentary bulletin sound weighty. What united them all was their demeanour. They did not dramatize, they did not impose their opinions, and they never raised their voices. News was read, not screamed. Even when they ann...

Oru Vadakkan Veeragadha - Refurbished

Image
  After 36 years, Oru Vadakkan Veeragatha ,one of the best ever malayalam movies   arrived in theaters  in a digitally remastered 4K Atmos version. The movie is based on the medieval ballad “Vadakkan Pattukal”  from North Malabar where the warriors were hailed as super  heroes  . Though many  Malayalam movies have in the past portrayed the Vadakkann pattukal stories to our screens , this movie stays apart for the story screenplay , direction , kalarippayattu fights, songs and the extra ordinary performance of the large number  of actors in the movie . It was an exquisite storytelling by MT Vasudevan Nair who could brilliantly transform the character of Chandu from a cheater, deceiver, womanizer, betrayer, murderer (which we have read in the folk stories) to an innocent scapegoat by detailing the perception of events from Chandus point of view . Some dialogues in the movie are still fresh in the minds of the Malayalees.   Apart from...

Varanasi :The luminous eternal city

Image
  Although Rome is often referred to as the eternal city, it is Varanasi known as Kashi or Benares  that deserves that epithet. Pilgrims have been coming there since at least four to five thousand years ago, and still do, to justify the comings and goings of life and death . I was on a official meeting to  Varanasi ,the land of Varuna and Assi , the tributaries of River Ganga. But I had  planned to stay back for an extra  day to experience the ‘City of Light’ . It is said that  Varanasi is older than history. A city which is older than traditions. Older than legends. Even if all these are added together, I felt that this  city and its ghats  looks twice as old as that. In the journey from the destination of life to another goal , this city is chosen by traditions and beliefs of many for  death and salvation . It is said that  Varanasi ends where another journey begins. Thousands flock to this city from all corners of the world  seek...

Ukraine , Russian and me

Image
  T imes have changed. Cold war is history. The world is not what it used to be. But a war among former disintegrated USSR republics ie Ukraine and Russia  brought memories about my ‘connections’ with this erstwhile largest country . Nostalgia junkies among millennials in Kerala like me grew up reading and hearing everything fantastic about Union of Soviet Socialist Republics.              Soviet Union, Soviet Life, Sovietland and Misha were propaganda magazines from the erstwhile Soviet Union, circulated across the world until the disintegration of the USSR. Those were the days before globalization and India was the mighty Soviet Union’s best friend. Russian magazines and books influenced the reading habits of Indians a great deal, especially those in communist leaning Kerala. The works of Russian masters such as Fyodor Dostoevsky, Leo Tolstoy, Olga Perovskaya and Maxim Gorky were popularised in Kerala by the Communist Party of India’s Prabh...

THE CUP AND SAUCER MEMORIES

Image
  “.......many of the people there (in India), who are strict in their religion, drink no wine at all; but they use a liquor, more wholesome than pleasant, they call coffee, made by a black seed boiled in water, which turns it almost into the same colour, but doth very little alter the taste of the water. Notwithstanding it is very good to help digestion, to quicken the spirits, and to cleanse the blood" So said Rev Edward Terry, Chaplain to Sir Thomas Roe who was British ambassador to the court of Emperor Jahangir in the early 16th Century.   Centuries after that, If there is a taste that connects people and culture in India, then it has to be the Indian Coffee house. A chain which connects 400 cities and towns in India, it has become a part of the common man. For about a century it was the favourite hangout for many sections of people, be it a professional or a labourer, rich or poor. Its legacy as a social meeting place in fostering intellectual discussions is well known, e...

Dhanushkodi Calling

Image
    Ever since I read in   a Sunday supplement about the erstwhile Indo- Srilanka rail route and the ‘Boat Mail Express’   train from   Madras to Colombo , my heart and mind wanted to see the Indian end point of that train journey. So, on a weekend of March 2022, my 'other half'   and I packed   our bags to a very unlikely destination in any of the tourist maps – Dhanushkodi.       Boat mail express or Indo Ceylon Express train was   a steamer ferry service between India and Sri Lanka connecting Chennai and Colombo, by a   rail-to-sea-to-rail operation. Passengers could buy a single ticket for this international journey through rail and   ferry. This train takes passengers from Chennai To Dhanushkodi, then ferries the passengers to Thalimannar in Sri Lanka, and then another train takes them to Colombo. Dhanushkodi, a ghost town today shrouded in mystery is located in the Rameshwaram district of Tamil Nadu. It   is t...

THE OTHER HALVES

Image
The "Gulf Boom" from Kerala to the Gulf countries started in the 1970s and continues to the present day . The Gulf those days were a transforming  piece of land with a lot of petro dollars in their coffers. They needed  skilled and unskilled labourers to build their country. Mallu men, mostly with a matriculation pass or fail and a mind full of big dreams, packed their bags and left in search of jobs in the gulf. These pioneers, who had mostly come from impoverished families, mostly landed in menial jobs in the gulf countries. They struggled hard under the burning desert sun, building roads, working at the drilling sites and even working in  farms and cattle learning. Some started small businesses or tea shops. The salaries they got in  Riyals or Dirhams  seemed large when compared to the meagre amounts they would have earned for a similar job back home.  They lived frugal lives, sending most of their earnings back home to their families so that they could ...

THE TURBULANCE

Image
  My first air travel was 20 years back on a flight from Mangalore to Mumbai. Ever since that maiden trip, I have transgressed the boundaries of states and nations to different airports.  Airports fascinate me but not the air travel.                             Most statistics maintain that air travel is the safest mode of travel. But my pre air travel anxiety surfaces every time I board the aircraft. Before every takeoff, I always try not to skyrocket my anxiety by keeping myself occupied with prayers, or by thumbing through the pages of in flight magazines.   The recent air accident at Karipur, Kozhikode rought back a memory of one of my worst travelling experience. It was a Sunday evening after a conference. The Indigo flight from Raipur took off from Swami Vivekanda Airport on time and everything went on as usual. The stewards started serving snacks and I took my typical trip to the w...

SMITHAM …. REASONS TO SMILE

Image
  “You are not fully dressed until you wear a smile” These words by our father of nation carries a lot of depth and thought.   A smile is one of the most simple, inexpensive and wonderful things in the world. Still, often we forget about this one powerful action while we get lost in the details of today and tomorrow. Smile starts you off in the right direction and as you continue to do so it spreads from person to person. A moment, a day, a life, is transformed through the power of your smile.  Smile is a facial expression formed by flexing the muscles near both ends of the mouth and by flexing muscles throughout the mouth.  Some smiles include contraction of the muscles at the corner of the eyes. Among humans, it is an expression denoting pleasure, amiability, happiness, or amusement, but can also be an involuntary expression of anxiety, in which case it is known as a grimace. Smiling is something that is understood by everyone despite culture, race, or reli...

The Tellicherry Renaissance 

Image
  Te llicherry was a trading hub  for spices in the western coast of India from the time immemorial . Many wars were fought by the Kings and the invaders for control of spice trade  in this area, and in the 17th century British established  their first settlement on the Malabar Coast at Tellicherry . Tellicherry was a land of renaissance and progressive ideas . From there came many revolutionaries who changed society .Tellicherry was  the birthplace of Communist movement in India. It was on the hills of Parapuram at Pinarayi , the communists had their first party congress . There were people who changed the course of the history through their determination  and vision . In the early 20th century ,people like CK Revathi and Kunhi Mayen changed the perception of the people through their actions and thoughts . Their life  story is much a story of the times. CK Revathi was the daughter of Karayi Damayanthi Amma , a lady with progres...

African Diary

Image
Jambo... Hello!  January 2019   Travelling from Kannur  to Kenya,  the Jomo Kenyatta Airport at Nairobi looks p unsophisticated  . Affrica  in my mind was a hot and humid , surprisingly the weather is fine  at around 25deg max and 15 deg min and we're told it's summer  now.  It's more or less  little like Wynad winter  climate without air conditioners anywhere on..  .  People were friendly and always wish as we pass them, but we were told by our friends there to be careful about the pickpockets and snatchers which were rampant .  Roads are wide and in vehicles seat belts are a must for all passengers .  Honking is akin to insulting and the discipline in driving and overtaking is worth learning  for malayalees .  All women have very fancy hairdo and they smile a lot . Kenyans speak very good English but the accent needs getting used to. Swahili sounds like hindi and is said to have descended from Hindi. ...

A CHERUKUNNU FABLE

Image
49 years routine of accompanying my father to his  ancestral house at Cherukunnu on Eid day had a break this year because of social distancing and stay at home protocols of  covid pandemic . As I lay in bed after a sumptuous eid lunch , a lot of vivid memories about Cherukunnu and its people  came to my mind. The place  has an innocuous charm like the people residing there. Over the years Cherukunnu has transformed from a simple village  to a bustling town with shopping complexes, banks and schools and most notably larger and bigger houses. During our school vacations we used to go to Cherukunnu to stay at the ancestral house situated at the convent road. The convent road with paddy fields on both the sides  terminates at the famous Christian missionary Martin de porous hospital. As a town born confused desi, walking through the  lush green fields all around with paddy cultivation to visit the relatives was a truly enchanting experience for me. Our sum...

The Past Emperor and Me

Image
Agra fort, The magnificient structure in red sandstone has seen many emperors and rulers in the past and was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty . I have longed to go there to witness and sense the history that I have only read in the history books.  I got the chance in last June . On a sunny afternoon, I  walked around the fort to feel the heartbeat of  history. Two hours at Taj Mahal and and an hour of walk  outside the fort drained me out . I walked through the pillared corriders of Diwan-aam  and moved to the Diwan-E-Khaas, Jahangir's Palace and then to Sheesh Mahal . From there  I moved to the top of  Musamman Burj , the  octagonal tower built in white marble which  looked very distinct. I stood on the pavilion  which  led to the chamber, where the historians claim was the place emperor Shahjehan was kept in exile by his son Aurangazeb. The view of the Yamuna and Taj mahal from there was stunning and ...