Spicy Malabaris Salivaris

Marco Polo of Venice was one of the earliest foreign travelers to visit India in the 13th century. He called the Malabar Coast as “an emporia of spice trade”. With vast areas of plantations, this God’s Own land was known for its natural plantations. People from all over the world came here in search of Black Gold (pepper), cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg etc. The spices of this coast were pure and expensive that only the wealthy could afford them. They were used as aromatics, which seasoned the delicacies served at European, African and Arab banquets. They were also used as medicines, as seen in the writings of Hippocrates. Bay leaves (or laurel) were woven into crowns for Olympic heroes, spice-scented balm were used after baths in Rome and Cordoba, spice-flavored wines were popular in Europe and incense made of spice was burned in temples in ancient Babylon. Our ancestors used the spices extensively in their cuisine making it mouth watering but healthy too.

When we talk about spices, the first thing that crosses our mind is Biriyani. It is said that Biriyani was taken to India from Samarkand (Uzbekistan) by Emperor Babar. Before his expedition to Hindustan, Babar called his bawarchis to prepare something that combined both meat and rice and provided a balance of rich nutrition and protein which could last long. Crossing the Hindukush mountain terrain was a dangerous proposition as it could take months depending on the weather. The chef is reported to have prepared a dish as per the royal instruction and named it Biriyani . Thus the Biriyani reached India in a Central Asian flavor. Once the Indians started cooking Biriyani, it had many variations according to the taste and ingredients used in different areas. Malabar Coast is famous for Thalassery Biriyani, which contains a lot of spices and flavor. The coconut chammanthi and pickle served as an accompaniment lends the dish a twist. Gastronomic fulfillment completes only after a cup of Arabian tea called Sulaimani (Black Lime tea) and some dessert especially Muttamala (egg garland, Fious De Ovous) which has a Portuguese origin.

There is more to Malabar cuisine than just biriyani. I have seen many people in Malabar who are just born to cook food and many who are just born to eat. Traditional Moppila homes in M

alabar are centers for cooking all the time. It starts from dawn and goes upto midnight. The fried snacks and ‘appatharangal’ are unique not only in taste but also in shape, size etc. Once my friend from Delhi noted that we Malabaris may be the only ones who take a natural fruit like dates, coat it with batter to deep fry.

Even though I criticize about excess food made at home, I have always been an avid foodie. Sometimes I feel the food items made by Malabari homes on special occasions are a show of extravaganza and splendor. But understanding the effort and the intention behind making these lovely culinary delights and the aroma in the air overtakes any unwanted thoughts. There is a long standing tradition of serving up the most delicious dishes to the new son-in-law in Malabari homes of Moppilah community of North Malabar region. As a new bride groom, the five to seven courses fried and mouth watering snacks and dishes served to me for months almost took my weight from 75 to nearly 100 kgs few decades back.

Malabar coast which lies along the Arabian sea coast with many rivers and backwaters criss crossing has an abundant supply of fish, prawns, mussles etc. You can find local hotels serving fish curry and fish fry for breakfast. The kallumakai (mussles) nirachathu , squid and prawns add a distinct taste to the sea food cuisine of Malabaris. Most of the curries are coconut milk and coconut oil based.

Food is such an integral part of the life style and culture of Malabar Coast. It is a pleasure to watch the Malabaris talk about food most of the time. Malabar food is the best sort of amalgamation of local and borrowed food traditions. Let it be mutton, chicken, vegetarian or beef, the Hindus, Muslims and Christians in the region contributed to the wonderful diversity of the food in their own unique way. Also the Arab traders and foreign rulers contributed their culinary character to the Malabari cuisine. Let us not forget the contribution of Mr Bappu of Mamballis Royal Bakery, Tellicherry and Mr Mudrock Browne, the Britisher who were instrumental in baking the first cake in India using the home grown cinnamon around 135 years back.

We, the connoisseurs of good food always believe that ‘Home is where the stomach is’